Gallery Archives - The Wireless Woodworker

The Shaker Side Table

August 9, 2017August 9, 2017
by Tim

One of the quintessential first woodworking projects seems to be a small side table. Some call these side tables, some call them end tables, plant stands, night tables… I have no idea what’s correct, but I’m sticking with side. Feel free to disagree. I’ve never made one so I think it’s about time.

I decided on a classic shaker design, mainly because it fits in with the style of our house, but also because the Schwarz did a great DVD for Lie-Nielsen a few years ago showing the build process step by step. His design has nice elegant lines and should last a lifetime – even with those tiny legs.

The basic side table form is such a great project for the novice woodworker because there are so many different options. As I was building it, all of the different joinery options became apparent. I went with mortise and tenons for the leg-to-apron joint, but you could easily do pegs, dominoes, or pocket holes. The same thing for the drawer construction – I went with dovetails all the way around, but you could do any number of different options. If you want to work on your turning you could make round legs, you could carve them if you want to get crazy, or add fancy moldings. The relatively small scale also makes it approachable from a hand tool perspective. This wood didn’t touch a machine until I turned the knob on the lathe.

Shaker designs generally look nice in most domestic hardwoods – Chris made his out of Maple… I’m going with Cherry – pine may also be a nice choice.

Selecting the right stock for the different pieces actually makes a big difference to the final look of the piece – I had no idea. For the legs you want nice straight grain lines on all four sides – Chris calls this bastard sawn, I call it rift sawn – I’m not sure if there’s a difference. The main thing is that you don’t want cathedrals on any of the leg’s sides interrupting the flow. On the other hand, these cathedrals add some nice interest to the aprons, so if you’re using plain sawn lumber like I am, save these center sections for the aprons and drawer front.

The 18” square top requires some more thought. I don’t have any 18″ wide cherry, but do have some 10” wide stock that I’ll use in a panel – you may have to use 3 pieces. To avoid a harsh line in the panel you want to aim for straight grain to straight grain along the edge. You could also do a bookmatch here if there was something interesting going on.

I didn’t film a lot of the finishing process – mainly because if I think if it’s boring to do it must be really dull to watch – but I did a few tests on some scrap cherry and decided on a thin coat of medium walnut danish oil with a shellac polish – my preferred top coat. I finish everything off with some paste wax.

I’m really happy with how everything came out. The cherry is maybe a little splotchy, but nobody except me will ever notice. It fits in with the house really well and is something I’m happy to take credit for when people comment.

Blog

Restoring a Vintage Chisel

January 23, 2017
by Tim

Chisels are without a doubt the most useful tool in a hand tool woodworking shop (other than your own hands!). Whenever I’m in the shop I always have a chisel either in my hand, or within arms reach. I flop back and forth between new and vintage chisels and don’t really have a preference as long as they’re sharp, so I’m always on the lookout for a good deal. I came across these two massive chisels at a local flea market and picked up both of them for $0.50 – a nice bargain considering the steel was in great shape.

The chisels are marked G.I. Mix and Co and were probably made around 1900-ish. They are both bevel edge socket chisels, one a 2″ and the other 1-1/4″. Neither one came with a handle and the steel was a little dinged up, but absolutely no big deal for a user tool. Here is a video of the process I go through when restoring a chisel – including getting the steel back into shape, turning the handle, and adding finish:

And some glamour shots of the completed project:

If you prefer not to watch the video, my normal restoration process for a chisel goes a little something like this:

Get rid of the old busted handle (if still attached)
Hit all the metal with a soft wire wheel on the grinder
Let them soak for a night in Evapo-Rust
Rinse them off well and immediately oil, then use the wire wheel again to remove the black oxide rust residue and oil again
If needed, repair/file the socket
Rough grind the bevel
Clean with Mineral Spirits, then TCE (wear gloves!)
Blue the metal – I do three coats. First coat applied with cotton balls, second applied with a gray scotchbrite pad, third applied with 0000 steel wool, and a final buff with paper towel
Turn the handle
Add 1 (or more) coat of stain/filler and buff across the grain after it has dried to a paste (~15 mins)
When completely dry, apply 4 coats of Tru-Oil, rubbing with 0000 steel wool between coats
When dry, rub out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax
Sharpen the chisel blade and get to work!

The products I use during the video are as follows:

Evapo-Rust

Brownell’s TCE Cleaner/Degreaser

Brownell’s Oxpho-Blue

Stock and Stain Filler

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil

I hope you enjoyed the latest video and if I’ve helped you refurbish an old chisel please feel free to let me know!

Gallery

The Step Stool

August 25, 2016December 18, 2016
by Tim

There were a few things I wanted to accomplish with this project and I found a perfect design in an old Popular Woodworking book by Glen Huey. My daughter is just about 18 months old now and loves to ‘help’ out in the kitchen, but isn’t quite tall enough to reach the sink or counter, so she was in need of a step stool. We also encourage her to read her books or play with dolls when we’re preparing for dinner, so thought she may enjoy a place to sit when she’s not helping. Finally, I just installed some 42″ cabinets and the top shelves are too high for my wife and I to reach, so ideally we are in need of a step stool as well. This nice little step stool converts into a cute toddler bench, perfect for small children wanting to help in the kitchen.

I used all hand tools for this little project and it turned out quite nice. This is a nice short project that allowed me to practice some basic hand tool skills and use up some scrap wood. You can take a look at the build process here:

The wood used is all cherry finished with a coat of boiled linseed oil and a few coats of shellac. I’m using these beautiful wrought heads nails from Tremont to hold everything together, but you could use anything you’d like (the plans call for plugged screws). I also found some decorative carriage bolts for the ‘axle’.

It works really well actually. My daughter loves flipping the step up and down and uses it as both a bench and step stool. She’s still a little small to reach everything on the counter, but she can at least see what’s going on up there and put some things in the sink. She definitely knows that it’s her piece of furniture, so my wife and I have trouble using it when she’s around, but I think it serves it’s purpose very well and I can see it being in use for a long time.

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The Frame Saw

June 28, 2016October 16, 2018
by Tim

I love nearly every part of working in a wireless wood shop and that includes most of the initial milling of rough lumber. The one part of hand work I don’t enjoy so much is re-sawing. I typically buy most of my lumber in 8/4 thickness, so for any projects requiring thinner stock I need to resaw it down to the correct thickness. I enjoy scrub planing rough lumber, and even like flattening boards by hand, but when it comes to re-sawing I find it mind numbing and boring. Maybe it’s because while planing I’m constantly thinking about the grain direction, but when sawing all I’m doing is trying to keep saw between the lines – boring. What I would like to do is get this process out of the way as soon as possible, but with only an 8 tpi hand saw, it tends to take quite a lot of time – not any more! Enter the frame saw:

The saw plate and hardware is the 31.5″ frame saw kit from Bad Axe Tool Works and the design is based on Tom Fidgen’s frame saw from The Unplugged Woodshop just elongated to fit the lengthened saw plate. The wood is 8/4 Ash that I had leftover from the Workbench build just quickly finished with an oil varnish blend (equal parts satin varnish, BLO, and mineral spirits).

Construction was pretty straightforward and is just like you see in the pictures. The two side supports are connected to the top and bottom with a dual mortise and tenon joint. No glue was used (the tension on the saw plate gives the strength needed), so I can tear it down and store it flat if need be. I spent quite a lot of time on shaping the handles, which angle backwards and downwards, because I wanted it to be comfortable. I used a plane tote as a template and set out with a few rasps to shape it.

I’ve only used it a few times since completion, but I’m really happy with the way it turned out. The handles turned out great and as much as I want to get through this part of milling quickly, I could comfortably use this for hours. It just eats through wood and makes fairly short work of smaller re-sawing tasks. I’m still practicing sawing in a straight line – it is very difficult to steer once the kerf is set, but adding a shallow kerf with a hand saw (I’ll be adding a kerfing plane at some point) makes this much easier. I also don’t plan on sawing veneer with this saw, so for coarse re-sawing tasks the accuracy isn’t completely necessary.

Blog

The Workbench

February 29, 2016December 18, 2016
by Tim

The workbench build is complete! See my first ever video and some final pictures of the bench. Links to the construction blog posts are at the bottom of the page.